27/12/2014

Brilliant 19th century: beauty ideals of the time

 

In the early 19th century, in the era of the Empire was in fashion naturalness and simplicity. Even cosmetic effect ladies trying to achieve by natural means, if required pallor - drank vinegar, if you blush - eating strawberries. For some time, even out of fashion jewelry. It is believed that the more beautiful a woman is, the less it needs ornaments.

Whiteness and tenderness of hands during the Empire so appreciated that even the night wore gloves.

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Francois Pascal Simon, Baron Gerard, "a portrait of Madame Recamier"

 

Madame Recamier - Paris's famous beauty, the most famous in the history of literary salon hostess. In imitation of the antique dresses much clothing. Since these dresses were made mainly of thin translucent muslin ladies ventured to catch a cold in a particularly cold days. For spectacular draperies, beautifully describes the natural gifts, ladies used the simple technique of ancient sculptors - moistened clothes, therefore no coincidence that the death rate from pneumonia in those years was very high. French "Journal de Maude" in 1802 even recommended its readers to visit Monmartskoe cemetery to see how many young girls are a victim of "naked" fashion. Paris newspapers were full of mourning Chronicle: "Madame de Noel died after the ball, at nineteen, Mademoiselle de Zhyuine - eighteen, Mademoiselle Chaptal - sixteen!" Within a few years of domination this extravagant fashion women died more than in the previous 40 years .

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Theresa Tallien was considered "beautiful Capitoline Venus" - so she had a perfect figure. She introduced the "naked" fashion. The easiest dress weighed 200 grams! Only thanks to Napoleon's Egyptian campaign in vogue cashmere shawls, which are widely popularized the wife of the emperor - Josephine. In the 20s of the XIX century figure of a woman resembles an hourglass: rounded "inflated" sleeves, wasp waist, full skirt. In fashion came corset. Waist to be unnatural by volume - about 55 cm. The quest for the "ideal" waist often leads to tragic consequences. So, in 1859, one 23-year-old fashionista died after the ball because of the fact that three compressed corset ribs pierced her liver.

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Vladimir Ivanovich Gau: "portrait of Pushkin NN" (1842-1843 biennium)

 

 

 

Natalia Goncharova, "the first Russian Beauty" beginning of the XIX century, the wife of Alexander Pushkin.

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P. Delaroche. Portrait of Henrietta Sontag singer 1831.

 

For the beauty of the ladies were ready to endure various inconveniences: wide field of ladies' hats that hung over his eyes, and as a result had to walk almost to the touch, long and heavy hem of her dress.

 

The authoritative British journal "The Lancet" in the 1820s, it was suggested that in muscle weakness, nervous system diseases and other ailments women blame their weight dresses, sometimes is about 20 pounds. Ladies often confused in their own skirts. Queen Victoria once a sprained ankle by stepping on the hem itself. In the second half of the 19th century revived craving for a certain artificiality. Healthy glow and tan, as well as a strong and powerful body became a sign of low origin. The ideal of beauty considered "wasp waist", pale faces, softness and refinement. Laughter and tears beautiful women should be beautiful and elegant. Laughter should be quiet, but crumbly. When weeping may be dropped no more than three or four tears and always observe the process in order not to spoil the complexion.

 

In fashion femininity painful. In this case, it comes as a mental illness in which the imbalance is bordered on insanity, and a symbol of beauty can serve as Camille Claudel (1864-1943) - the muse and pupil of sculptor Auguste Rodin, and about the diseases of the body, like Marguerite Gautier, mortally TB patients courtesan - the heroine of the novel "La Dame aux Camelias" by Alexandre Dumas.

 

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Photo Shoot. Camille Claudel

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Marie Duplessis (1824-1847), the prototype of Marguerite Gautier, the most famous French courtesan

 

 

 

To make the face matte pale ladies take three times a day crushed chalk (well cleaned chalk could get in drugstores, use crayons, intended for a card game, it was impossible) and drank vinegar and lemon juice, and circles under the eyes is achieved through special lack of sleep.

 

 

 

Queen Louise of Prussia, nee Princess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz

 

 

Who saw her for the first time the Russian Emperor Alexander I was speechless. When asked what he remembered most for his visit to the country, he said: "The Queen!"

 

 

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Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tishbayn: "Portrait of Louise"

 

 

 

When German soldiers were defeated on the battlefield, she hated Napoleon arrived in Tilsit in 1807, with the help of her beauty, win concessions Prussia. And admiration of her Napoleon said to her, "I heard you the fairest of queens, but I do not know what you are most beautiful of women," and kept East Prussia. Although shortly before Louise was the only woman that Napoleon considered personal enemy.

 

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Louise Wilhelmina Amalia August Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz

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Empress Eugenia of France, wife of Napoleon III.

 

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Franz Xaver Winterhalter artist: "Empress Eugenie" (1854)

 

 

 

Trendsetter. It Empress Eugenie introduced in Europe the fashion of travel, comfort, spirits, great hotels and vacation on the coast of the Atlantic. She loved the powder and balls.

 

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Edouard Dyubyuf "Eugenia de Montijo (1826-1920), the French Empress Eugenie"

 

 

 

The Empress was blonde. French imitated her in everything, even in hair color. And then the Parisian hairdresser Hugo found a simple way bleaching hair with hydrogen peroxide. Soon in high society there was not a dark-haired lady.

 

Eugene was able to make beautiful and gestures like compatriots. She refused to accept from the city authorities wedding gift - a diamond necklace at the cost of 600 thousand francs, saying: "You make me much happier, transferring the amount designated for charitable purposes. I do not want my wedding has become a burden for the country, which I now belong. "

 

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Franz Xavier Winterhalter, "Empress Eugénie surrounded by her ladies" (1855)

 

Her beauty captivated even the Turkish sultan, who in honor of Eugenia built one of his palaces.

 

 

 

Empress Sissi of Austria-Hungary, Elisabeth of Bavaria

 

(usually written "Sisi" in cases when it comes to historical personality, and "Sissi", if meant heroine Romy Schneider)

 

 

 

Those who visited the modern Vienna know, Mozart and Sisi - a source of pride Austrians. Their portraits can be seen everywhere, they are named after flowers and chocolate. They cult of personality in his country. After a series of films on the beauty Elizabeth, it became popular outside Austria.

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Franz Xavier Winterhalter: "Elisabeth of Bavaria - Empress of Austria"

 

 

 

Her beauty - the result of iron discipline and constant care about their appearance. Its beauty Elizabeth carefully guarded. Got up at six in the morning, made a run at the royal garden, then had breakfast oatmeal, committed 2-hour walk on a horse. Weight it never exceeded 52 kilograms during the growth of 172 cm. Her wasp waist is 50 cm (according to some biographers and even less - 47 cm). Empress harmony is further emphasized by tight lacing corset. To get rid of extra layers of clothes, she even refused to wear petticoats and pantaloons thin instead - at the time it was unimaginable! All dresses daily sutured directly on it.

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Franz Xavier Winterhalter,

 

 

 

Passionate traveler, she ordered wherever lived, equipped gyms. Everywhere it was accompanied by "suitcase beauty". Wherever the Queen Elizabeth for the night to make a mask for the face with raw beef in the summer - the mask of crushed strawberries, and regularly took a warm bath with olive oil.

 

A source of pride - hair Sisi. "Slave of your hair" - she said about himself. Her luxurious hair really caused and continue to cause admiration. Long hair Sisi had her original card.

 

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Personal hairdresser Queen gets crazy money at that time: the annual income of Fanny Unger, who was court kuafёrom, amounted to a cash consideration of university professors.

It is said that the Empress hair, painted in brown color, it reached to toe. Despite the color, they were strong and healthy, thanks to the constant care that Elizabeth was called "a religious rite." Every day, about 3 hours was spent on combing the hair of the Empress; she made her maids of honor to count every fallen hair, and every three weeks her thick hair washed with several dozen egg yolks and the 12th best bottles of cognac.

 

From a letter to the US ambassador in Vienna to his mother in America: "The Empress, as I told you more than once told me - wonderful beauty: tall and slender, with beautiful shapes, with traveling-light brown hair, a low forehead, a Greek, a tender look, with very red lips and a sweet smile, with a low, sonorous voice, and sometimes indecisive, sometimes very graceful behavior. "

 

In '42 she forbade herself to paint and photograph, wore a veil and covered her face with an umbrella.

Queen Sisi was killed by terrorists during a walk on the waterfront in Geneva. The offender was still kill someone, he saw the manner and dress aristocrat and struck a fatal blow to her sharpened with a file.

 

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Now, the death of the beautiful Elizabeth is a monument.

 

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Britain's Queen Victoria

 

Her name gave the name of an era, and its long (64 years!) Rule was the "golden age" of England, a time of stability and unification of the nation.

 

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Franz Xavier Winterhalter, "Queen Victoria in the early years"

 

 

 

Queen differed powerful and ambitious character. Punctual to mania, she meticulously scrutinizing every case, and never any important decision was taken without its participation. It can be safely called "Iron Lady."

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Franz Xavier Winterhalter,

 

 

 

Victoria was short and she jokingly said to himself: "We are, however, quite low for the queen." Although the adopted standards while she was not beautiful, to judge her appearance can be on its numerous portraits.

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Victoria became a role model for his subjects. The era of Victorian went down in history as the era of high morality, virtue and family values. She was not only an exemplary wife, but also a caring mother.

 

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